I've been doing more and more roped solo stuff. I had started working routes at the local crag that were more slabby, basically 5.3-5.8, but nothing that wasn't much more than a tricky class five walk up with a few crux moves that you wouldn't want to fall off of. So that system consisted of a 'top rope' that had a rope bag with my shoes or whatever giving the line some tension to essentially run up the rope as if it were fixed, this allowed me to flow across the rock and not worry about any system. I accomplished this with use of a wild country ropeman 1. Its important not to use the ropeman with the gnarly teeth as its bad for your rope with regular use. So I start cruising the 'hard' ways I find up these slabs, even throwing in some hook moves with pocket aiders to get over a small bulgey 'roof'.
But at last, it was time to move from top rope to a system that allowed for a lead experience. At our local crag there are a few cracks, but not a whole lot you could protect with trad gear. So I start looking around and low and behold there is a seam that as it turns out is very perceptive to, albeit shallow but, decent cam placements. The best part about this crag is that there's a really nice set of bolts that I probably use the most throughout the year at the top. I would employ these bolts at first to set up a fail safe fixed line with my friend belaying me on lead as usual. The fixed line was just there to make sure if all hell broke loss, there wouldn't be a broken bone situation. The gear placements in the crack, I would discover, are basically to make sure you dont tumble too far, they aren't stopping you from bashing into the walls or tops of the small flakes that make up the most of the climb. One thing I did learn was how to excessively stitch up a route, however, I did fail to pay attention to the sequence of gear needed, this would leave the first solo push very much in questionable territory with sweaty palms.
The very first time I went to solo this thing, I was pretty terrified, but I had gotten a wild hair up my ass and just decided to go one evening. I was there by myself. I had figured out a self belay system with my GriGri and a backpack to feed rope from that went smooth, but the ground anchor, what a mess. At first I had two pieces in on either side of a flake and then a third to place tension back the other direction to make sure the two pieces wouldn't fall out. All this mess was tied together with a giant loop of 1" webbing, doubled over.
To make sure, again, that the ground anchor was secure I clove hitched the line to the first piece, a solid bd #2 c4. From here I proceeded up the route, trying to remember to breath and move smoothly while pulling rope through the GriGri. Of course, this wasn't exactly how it played out. Keep in mind I had a window of about an hour and 15 minutes to get this thing done before 'dusk' and closing time at the park the crag is located in. After the first piece I moved across the main crack. The problem with this crack is that its 'over hung' so to speak and shallow, so full on finger and hand jams are out of the question. This creates a situation where you are forced to trust your feet under a flake and out of site, merely feeling around with your toes on crystals of rock while your hands act in an opposing fashion, almost as if you were trying to widen the crack with your hands. So as far as movement and injury potential go, bad and worse. This move in particular, getting past this first piece in a relatively hairy situation, would become a goal of mine to pull off cleanly. After pulling past this first move up onto a series of flakes I was sure to stick two pretty bomber cams in for the price of one move, confidently found a great pair of finger jams and high stepped. At this point I threw in another cam and set about extending this piece. Going straight up is less of an option as the buldge isn't ideal to mess with on a self belay situation, so a traverse is needed. Even in subsequent climbs I think of this traverse as the second crux, the first being the first move onto the route proper. Essentially a fall wouldn't be pretty here as you're run out a touch and would be buying a one way ticket on the pain train if a slip did occur. Luckily there are some good feet and I was able to futz around with another piece before moving to the last ledge and then to the top. All total I had used 7 pieces and about 35 minutes on a 35 foot route. Not setting any records but it was rewarding to 'just go to work' and send the thing.
This first solo climb was in early may, so it wasn't insanely hot here in delaware, but it wasn't cool either. Over the subsequent months I've been able to reduce the pro on this route to a four pieces, pulling a couple laps within 25 minutes typically. This turn around time is also due to a quick rappel and cleaning system which allows me to get back to the ground, rerack and head back up while the eye of the tiger is still with me. It is this mentality, the eye of the tiger, which has had a magnificent and massive effect on my leading. It seems as if the pull ups and kettlebell swings and bike rides and runs, none of it is as effective as telling yourself to take a breath, visualize, believe and execute without question. Its as if climbing is a mindless mindful sport, on one hand you need to pay attention to everything and the other you should pay attention to nothing. The end result is a laser focus that you could slice the rock with.
My biggest crux right now is getting over the on site leading. My 'adventure climbing/big wall' partner leads a lot and he's got this edge to leap out there and you can see the laser when it activates. So I have one message for my amygdala, the beatings will continue until morale improves. Already however I find myself less and less phased by the exposure and focus more on getting the job done. Its like stepping out of the role of being a tourist and becoming a friend to the rock, world wide, and the world being cool with you crashing on its couch, or like making yourself at home in a lions den, it could be cool, but you could get eaten alive, its just up to how you wanna play it and how cool you wanna stay.
But at last, it was time to move from top rope to a system that allowed for a lead experience. At our local crag there are a few cracks, but not a whole lot you could protect with trad gear. So I start looking around and low and behold there is a seam that as it turns out is very perceptive to, albeit shallow but, decent cam placements. The best part about this crag is that there's a really nice set of bolts that I probably use the most throughout the year at the top. I would employ these bolts at first to set up a fail safe fixed line with my friend belaying me on lead as usual. The fixed line was just there to make sure if all hell broke loss, there wouldn't be a broken bone situation. The gear placements in the crack, I would discover, are basically to make sure you dont tumble too far, they aren't stopping you from bashing into the walls or tops of the small flakes that make up the most of the climb. One thing I did learn was how to excessively stitch up a route, however, I did fail to pay attention to the sequence of gear needed, this would leave the first solo push very much in questionable territory with sweaty palms.
The very first time I went to solo this thing, I was pretty terrified, but I had gotten a wild hair up my ass and just decided to go one evening. I was there by myself. I had figured out a self belay system with my GriGri and a backpack to feed rope from that went smooth, but the ground anchor, what a mess. At first I had two pieces in on either side of a flake and then a third to place tension back the other direction to make sure the two pieces wouldn't fall out. All this mess was tied together with a giant loop of 1" webbing, doubled over.
To make sure, again, that the ground anchor was secure I clove hitched the line to the first piece, a solid bd #2 c4. From here I proceeded up the route, trying to remember to breath and move smoothly while pulling rope through the GriGri. Of course, this wasn't exactly how it played out. Keep in mind I had a window of about an hour and 15 minutes to get this thing done before 'dusk' and closing time at the park the crag is located in. After the first piece I moved across the main crack. The problem with this crack is that its 'over hung' so to speak and shallow, so full on finger and hand jams are out of the question. This creates a situation where you are forced to trust your feet under a flake and out of site, merely feeling around with your toes on crystals of rock while your hands act in an opposing fashion, almost as if you were trying to widen the crack with your hands. So as far as movement and injury potential go, bad and worse. This move in particular, getting past this first piece in a relatively hairy situation, would become a goal of mine to pull off cleanly. After pulling past this first move up onto a series of flakes I was sure to stick two pretty bomber cams in for the price of one move, confidently found a great pair of finger jams and high stepped. At this point I threw in another cam and set about extending this piece. Going straight up is less of an option as the buldge isn't ideal to mess with on a self belay situation, so a traverse is needed. Even in subsequent climbs I think of this traverse as the second crux, the first being the first move onto the route proper. Essentially a fall wouldn't be pretty here as you're run out a touch and would be buying a one way ticket on the pain train if a slip did occur. Luckily there are some good feet and I was able to futz around with another piece before moving to the last ledge and then to the top. All total I had used 7 pieces and about 35 minutes on a 35 foot route. Not setting any records but it was rewarding to 'just go to work' and send the thing.
This first solo climb was in early may, so it wasn't insanely hot here in delaware, but it wasn't cool either. Over the subsequent months I've been able to reduce the pro on this route to a four pieces, pulling a couple laps within 25 minutes typically. This turn around time is also due to a quick rappel and cleaning system which allows me to get back to the ground, rerack and head back up while the eye of the tiger is still with me. It is this mentality, the eye of the tiger, which has had a magnificent and massive effect on my leading. It seems as if the pull ups and kettlebell swings and bike rides and runs, none of it is as effective as telling yourself to take a breath, visualize, believe and execute without question. Its as if climbing is a mindless mindful sport, on one hand you need to pay attention to everything and the other you should pay attention to nothing. The end result is a laser focus that you could slice the rock with.
My biggest crux right now is getting over the on site leading. My 'adventure climbing/big wall' partner leads a lot and he's got this edge to leap out there and you can see the laser when it activates. So I have one message for my amygdala, the beatings will continue until morale improves. Already however I find myself less and less phased by the exposure and focus more on getting the job done. Its like stepping out of the role of being a tourist and becoming a friend to the rock, world wide, and the world being cool with you crashing on its couch, or like making yourself at home in a lions den, it could be cool, but you could get eaten alive, its just up to how you wanna play it and how cool you wanna stay.
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